Enter the room dimensions to get the linear feet of baseboard and the number of boards to buy.
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Estimates, not quotes. Check product packaging for exact coverage before ordering.
Baseboard is priced and sold by linear foot. Measure the room perimeter, subtract door openings, add waste for cuts and mitres, then divide by the length of the boards you plan to buy and round up.
A 12 by 10 ft room has a 44 ft perimeter. Subtract a 3 ft door opening to get 41 ft. With 10 percent waste that is 45.1 ft, and in 8 ft boards that is 6 boards (48 ft). Corners and mitres are easier with longer boards, but they are harder to carry and install.
Buy the longest boards you can handle comfortably: fewer joins look better. Mitre outside corners and cope inside corners for a tight fit. Keep one spare board for repairs, and prime or paint before installation if the trim will be exposed to moisture.
MDF is the common choice for painted baseboard: smooth, stable and cheap. Pine takes paint well and handles minor knocks. Vinyl baseboard suits bathrooms and basements where moisture is a problem. Height is usually 4 to 6 inches; taller boards look better in rooms with high ceilings.
MDF swells if it gets wet, so keep it away from floors that flood. Solid wood costs more but can be sanded and refinished.
| Room | Perimeter | Linear ft (10% waste, 1 door) |
|---|---|---|
| 10 by 10 bedroom | 40 ft | 41 |
| 12 by 14 living room | 52 ft | 54 |
| 8 by 10 bathroom | 36 ft | 36 |
| Hallway 4 x 20 | 48 ft | 49 |
Subtract door openings, but not windows, because baseboard sits below them.
Inside corners are coped, not mitred, so the joint stays tight as the wood moves. Outside corners are mitred at 45 degrees. Cut the longest walls first and work toward the corners so the short pieces land where they are less visible.
Nail into studs, keep the board tight to the floor, and caulk the top edge before painting. Paint the baseboard before installation if the floor is already finished.
Prime both sides and the cut ends of MDF, or it will swell at the bottom. Use a semi-gloss or satin finish for scrubbing, and caulk the joint to the wall for a clean line. Two thin coats look better than one thick coat.
Keep a spare board for future repairs; matching a profile later is difficult if the style is discontinued.
A simple rectangular room is a reasonable DIY trim job with a mitre saw and a coping saw. Bay windows, stair trim and rooms with many corners are faster and cleaner with a carpenter who has the tools and the technique.
Ask whether the quote includes caulking and painting, because those steps often decide the final look.
Flat boards are the cheapest and easiest to fit. Colonial and ranch profiles look more finished and suit most homes. Tall baseboards (7 to 9 inches) work in rooms with high ceilings, while short boards suit small rooms and bathrooms.
The profile affects the price and the tools: a simple flat board can be cut with a mitre box, while a profiled board needs a power mitre saw and careful coped joints.
Gaps at the floor, uneven top lines and filled corners are the mistakes that stand out. Check the floor for level before cutting; a wavy floor needs the board scribed, not forced.
Nail into studs, not just the drywall, and keep the nails in the paint line. Caulk the top and fill the nail holes before painting for a clean finish.
Buy all the trim for a room at once so the profile and colour match. Store it flat and dry; MDF and pine both bow if they lean against a wall for weeks.
Check each board for straightness before cutting. A bowed board will not sit tight to the wall, and no amount of caulk fixes a gap that big.
If only part of a room is being trimmed, take a sample of the existing profile to the store. Profiles are discontinued, and a close match is easier to find than an exact one.
Match the height and the paint finish as well as the shape. A slightly different sheen is more visible than a slightly different profile.
Painting the trim before installation gives a cleaner line and saves cutting in on the floor. Fill the nail holes, caulk the top edge, then touch up after installation.
If the floor is being finished after the trim, protect the baseboard with tape and paper. Paint spatters on a new floor are harder to remove than masking tape is to apply.
Perimeter (2 × length + 2 × width) minus door openings, then add 10 percent waste.
About 6 boards at 8 ft each with 10 percent waste.
Subtract full door openings; windows usually sit above baseboard height and are not subtracted.
Ten percent is normal; 15 percent for rooms with many corners or angled walls.
Longer boards reduce joins and waste, but only if you can transport and install them.
Perimeter (2 x length + 2 x width) minus door openings, then add 10 percent waste.
About 6 boards with 10 percent waste.
No, baseboard sits below windows; subtract doors only.
Yes, caulk the top edge to the wall and fill nail holes before painting.
Baseboard is measured by linear foot of wall; waste guidance follows common trim installation practice. · Last updated October 30, 2026 · Report a correction
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