All services
52 services in 9 categories · all live now
Enter the room size and the tile size to get the tile count with a waste allowance, before you buy.
Free, no sign-up. Runs in your browser.
LocalServiceHQ · Tile calculator
Your result
Estimates, not quotes. Check product packaging for exact coverage before ordering.
Tiles are counted by area: room area ÷ area of one tile, then add a waste allowance. One 12 by 12 inch tile covers 1 sq ft; a 6 by 6 inch tile covers 0.25 sq ft. Waste covers cuts at edges, corners and breakage: 10 percent is normal for a straight lay, more for diagonal or herringbone patterns.
A 10 by 8 ft room is 80 sq ft. With 12 by 12 inch tiles (1 sq ft each) and 10 percent waste, you need about 88 tiles. The same room with 6 by 6 inch tiles needs about 352 tiles, because each tile covers only 0.25 sq ft.
Buy all the tile for a job at once and keep one spare box. Dye lots differ between production runs, so a later box may not match. Keep the receipt: most suppliers accept unopened boxes back, and leftover tiles are the cheapest repair kit you will ever own.
Ceramic tile is the budget choice for walls and light-traffic floors. Porcelain is denser and more water resistant, which is why it is the default for bathrooms, kitchens and outdoor areas. Natural stone needs sealing and costs more to install because the edges and thickness vary.
Tile size changes both the look and the labour. Large-format tiles (12 by 24 inches and up) cover more area with fewer grout lines but need a flatter floor and more careful cutting. Small tiles suit showers and splashbacks where the floor slopes.
| Room | Typical size | 12x12 tiles (with 10% waste) |
|---|---|---|
| Bathroom floor | 5 x 8 ft (40 sq ft) | 44 |
| Kitchen floor | 10 x 12 ft (120 sq ft) | 132 |
| Hallway | 4 x 15 ft (60 sq ft) | 66 |
| Shower wall | 3 x 7 ft (21 sq ft) | 23 |
| Backsplash | 10 x 2 ft (20 sq ft) | 22 |
These counts assume 12 by 12 inch tiles. For 6 by 6 inch tiles multiply by four, and for 12 by 24 inch tiles multiply by two before adding waste.
The tile count is only the first order. You also need thin-set or mastic, a notched trowel, spacers, grout, sealer and a wet saw. The floor needs to be flat within about 1/8 inch over 10 feet for large tiles, or the edges will show.
Layout matters as much as the count. Start from the centre of the room or the main sight line, plan the cuts at the edges, and keep the cut tiles out of the most visible corner. A dry layout before mixing thin-set catches most problems.
Ten percent waste is normal for a straight lay. Diagonal layouts, herringbone patterns and rooms with many doorways need 15 percent. The most common ordering mistakes are measuring the wall instead of the floor, forgetting a niche or step, and buying tile from two different dye lots.
Keep one spare box. Matching tile later is difficult because production runs change, and a spare box is the cheapest repair kit for a cracked tile.
A small floor or splashback is a reasonable DIY project if the substrate is flat and the tile is large enough to handle. Showers, heated floors and natural stone are better with a professional, because waterproofing and movement joints decide whether the job lasts.
Get two quotes for anything over about 100 sq ft, and ask what waterproofing and substrate prep are included. Those lines are where cheap tile jobs fail.
Grout is not just a filler; it decides how the floor wears. Cementitious grout is cheap and needs sealing every year or two. Epoxy grout costs more but resists stains and does not need sealing, which makes it a good choice for kitchens and rentals.
Seal penetrates stone and porous tile; it does not make a floor waterproof. Movement joints at the room edges and where the floor changes direction need a flexible sealant, not grout, or they will crack.
Tiling over old tile saves the removal cost and time, but it raises the floor height, can bury a door swing and works only if the old tile is sound and well bonded. Any loose tile or spongy floor means removal first.
Removal adds dust, disposal and repair of the substrate, so get both prices before deciding. A flat, sound substrate is worth more than the savings from tiling over.
Order a sample or a single box first and look at it in the room light. Tile colour changes between dye lots, so order the whole job at once and keep the batch number on the receipt.
Allow a few days for delivery and a day for a dry layout before installation. If the tile is special order, add the lead time to the schedule before the installer is booked.
Bathrooms and showers need a waterproof substrate, not just water-resistant tile. Cement board or a waterproof membrane goes under the tile, with a flexible sealant at the corners and the floor junction.
Slip resistance matters on wet floors: matte and textured tiles are safer than polished porcelain. Ask for the tile rating for the area before buying on appearance.
About 80 tiles at 12 by 12 inches without waste, or 88 with a 10 percent allowance.
Ten percent for a straight lay, 15 percent for diagonal or patterned layouts, and a little more for small rooms with many cuts.
Measure the floor area, then subtract fixed obstacles like a tub or cabinet only if tile will not be cut around them.
It depends on the tile size. Check the box for square feet per box and divide your total area by that number.
Yes. Keep at least one box for future repairs, especially for patterned tile.
Ten percent for a straight lay, 15 percent for diagonal or patterned layouts, and a little more for rooms with many cuts.
It varies by tile size. Check the box for square feet per box, then divide your total area by that number.
Tile the floor first and reinstall the toilet on top, or cut around the flange carefully. Tiling under is easier to replace later.
Decades when installed over a stable, waterproof substrate. Grout and sealant need occasional maintenance.
Tile counting is arithmetic from area; waste percentages follow common installation guidance. Check the tile box for exact square feet per box. · Last updated October 30, 2026 · Report a correction