Written by the LocalServiceHQ editorial team · Repair prices checked October 2026
Start with the symptom, not the trade. Each row tells you what to check, the point where it stops being cosmetic, and the first action worth taking.
Crack width is the one number that separates cosmetic from structural in most concrete and masonry cracks. Measure the widest point with a crack gauge, a set of feeler gauges, or the crack width checker that compares a photo with common thresholds. Write the number down with the date; a crack that is stable at 4 mm is a monitoring job, a crack that grew from 2 mm to 6 mm in a season is not.
| Width | What it usually means | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Hairline to about 2 mm | Shrinkage or settlement that has largely stopped | Seal and monitor; no structural repair |
| About 2 mm to 6 mm | Active movement possible | Mark the ends, photograph monthly, get an inspection if it grows |
| Wider than 6 mm, or vertical displacement | Structural movement | Structural engineer before any cosmetic repair |
| Stair-step in brick or block | Foundation settlement | Foundation inspection, not a masonry patch |
General guidance, not a structural assessment. A local engineer has to see the building.
Repairing a ceiling stain without finding the leak is the most common way to pay twice. Trace the water before you patch: a stain near a chimney or a valley is usually flashing; a stain below a bathroom is usually a supply line, a drain or a failed seal; a stain on a basement wall is often grading or drainage outside.
Once the source is fixed, the repair has two parts. Dry the structure, then repair the finish. Mould needs moisture, so the priority is drying the cavity, not painting over the surface. Our water damage guide covers extraction and drying, and the drywall repair calculator prices the finish repair by area.
The decision is usually about the share of the item's life that is left, not about the size of the repair bill. A single repair that costs more than half of a replacement, on an item already near the end of its service life, is money that does not come back.
| Item | Repair when | Replace when | Cost guide |
|---|---|---|---|
| Drywall | Damage is under a few square feet and the board is dry | Large areas, or repeated leaks in the same wall | Drywall guide |
| Roof | One isolated flashing or shingle failure | Widespread granule loss, multiple leaks, or age near the end of service life | Roofing guide |
| Foundation | Localised crack with no movement | Differential movement, bowing walls or repeated repairs | Foundation guide |
| Water heater | Valve or element on a tank with life left | Tank leak, or a unit near the end of its warranty | Water heater guide |
| Flooring | A few damaged boards in a repairable floor | Widespread wear or water damage under the floor | Flooring guide |
These are installed prices from the price index, checked in October 2026. Repair costs are usually quoted per square foot, per pier or per unit, so the first question for any repair quote is what unit it is priced in.
| Repair | Unit | Low | Typical | High |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Drywall installation | per sq ft | $1.50 | $2.50 | $3.50 |
| Foundation piering | per pier | $1,000 | $1,800 | $3,000 |
| Mould remediation | per sq ft | $15 | $22 | $30 |
| Tank water heater replaced | per unit | $600 | $1,800 | $3,100 |
| Concrete repair and pour | per sq ft | $6 | $9 | $15 |
Run the crack width checker, then compare the repair cost with a replacement estimate.
If the damage may be an insurance claim, document it before the repair crew arrives. Photograph the damage with something for scale, the source of the water or movement, and the surrounding area. Keep receipts for emergency repairs and drying equipment, and do not throw away damaged materials until the adjuster has seen them. Insurers usually expect you to prevent further damage, so a temporary fix such as tarping a roof or shutting off a supply line is normal; a permanent rebuild before the inspection is not.
Write a short timeline: when you first noticed it, what you did, who you called, and what they said. A timeline is easier to read than a folder of photos, and it makes the claim conversation shorter.
| Repair | Permit usually needed | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Structural repair, beam or joist replacement | Yes | Inspection of the structure before it is covered |
| Electrical repair or new circuits | Usually | Licensed work and inspection |
| Gas line or water heater replacement | Often | Safety inspection and venting |
| Roof replacement | Often | Layers, decking and code compliance |
| Like-for-like drywall patch | Rarely | No structural or system change |
Permit rules are local. A quick call to the building department with the job description is the reliable check, and the contractor should be the one pulling the permit for the work they do.
A repair quote is easy to under-specify because the cause is often hidden. The useful quote separates the diagnosis from the work, and it names the parts of the job that could change once the wall or floor is opened.
| Line | What it should say | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Diagnosis | What is causing the problem, with photos or a report | A repair without a cause is a revisit |
| Access and demolition | What is opened, removed and disposed of | Hidden damage is the usual cost surprise |
| Materials and method | Product, thickness, reinforcement, finish | Two quotes with different methods are not comparable |
| Contingency | A stated allowance for what is found after opening | Turns a surprise into a planned range |
| Warranty and follow-up | Workmanship period and a return visit policy | Repairs that come back should be covered |
You can seal a cosmetic, stable crack on the surface. You cannot fix the cause from the outside. If the crack is wider than about 6 mm, has vertical displacement, or has grown over a season, an engineer should look before any sealing.
Often not, because insurers usually exclude settlement and earth movement. Sudden events such as a burst pipe are treated differently from long-term movement. Read the policy or ask the insurer before assuming a claim will pay.
Published manufacturer and contractor ranges put tank water heaters around 8 to 12 years and tankless units around 15 to 20 years, depending on water quality and maintenance. A leaking tank is not a repair item; replace it.
Bleach can kill mould on a hard, non-porous surface but does not remove it from drywall, wood or insulation, and it does not fix the moisture. Porous materials with growth usually need removal and replacement.
Repairs open hidden areas. A stated allowance for what might be found behind a wall makes the quote honest, and it is easier to approve than an open-ended "we will see".
Make it safe and prevent further damage, but photograph and keep evidence before permanent repairs. Check the policy and the insurer's instructions; permanent work done before the inspection can complicate the claim.
Cosmetic sealing usually does not need one. Structural repair, underpinning or a change to the foundation does. The building department can tell you based on the job description, and the contractor should know the local rule.
Many contractors charge a visit fee that is credited against the repair if you hire them. Ask before booking whether the fee is credited, and ask for the diagnosis in writing with photos.