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Laminate calculator

Enter the room size and the square feet per box to get the box count with waste, before you order.

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LocalServiceHQ · Laminate calculator

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Boxes needed
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Coverage ordered

Estimates, not quotes. Check product packaging for exact coverage before ordering.

How this calculator works

Divide room area by the square feet in one box, add waste, then round up. Laminate boards are cut at walls, doorways and angles, so 10 percent waste is normal and 15 percent is safer in rooms with many corners or a diagonal layout.

A worked example

A 12 by 10 ft room is 120 sq ft. A box covering 24.6 sq ft means 120 ÷ 24.6 = 4.88 boxes, plus 10 percent waste = 5.37, so buy 6 boxes. That leaves about 28 sq ft spare for cuts and future repairs.

Underlayment and expansion gaps

Laminate needs underlayment and a small expansion gap at the walls. Underlayment is ordered for the same area as the floor; the gap is a few millimetres and is covered by baseboard. Plan the layout so the last row is not a thin sliver.

Laminate ratings and thickness

Laminate is graded by AC rating: AC3 for residential, AC4 for heavy residential and light commercial, AC5 for commercial. Thickness of 8 mm is common, 10 to 12 mm feels more solid and can handle small floor variations better.

Thicker planks are not always better; the core quality and the click system matter more. Check the wear layer and the warranty for wet areas before choosing on price.

Laminate by room

RoomAreaBoxes at 24.6 sq ft (10% waste)
Bedroom144 sq ft7
Living room300 sq ft14
Kitchen150 sq ft7
Hallway80 sq ft4

Box coverage varies by product, so check the box before ordering and use the calculator with your own number.

Underlayment and subfloor prep

Laminate needs a flat subfloor, usually within 3/16 inch over 10 feet. Underlayment adds cushioning and sound control; some planks have it attached, in which case a separate layer can make the joints feel soft.

Concrete subfloors need a moisture barrier and a test before installation. A damp slab will warp laminate even if the surface looks dry.

Expansion gaps and installation

Leave an expansion gap of about 8 to 10 mm at every wall, covered by baseboard or trim. Acclimate the boxes in the room for 48 hours before installation, and stagger the end joints by at least 8 inches.

Plan the layout so the last row is at least 2 inches wide. A thin sliver row is hard to fit and looks wrong; adjust the starting row to avoid it.

DIY or a fitter

Click-lock laminate is a reasonable DIY floor for a flat room. Doorways, stairs and large rooms with several rooms flowing together are better with a fitter, because transitions and expansion gaps decide whether the floor stays flat.

Ask how the fitter handles transitions, skirting and the old floor removal before comparing prices.

Laminate versus LVP and hardwood

Laminate has a printed wear layer over a fibre core. LVP (luxury vinyl plank) is waterproof and quieter underfoot; hardwood is solid wood that can be sanded and refinished. Laminate sits between them on price and is the easiest to install over a flat subfloor.

Choose laminate where the budget matters and the room is dry. Choose LVP for bathrooms, basements and kitchens where water is a risk.

Cleaning and long-term care

Vacuum or sweep often, and use a damp mop with a laminate-safe cleaner. Never wet-mop or steam-clean laminate, because water finds the seams and swells the core.

Felt pads under furniture and a mat at the door prevent scratches. Keep a few spare planks for repairs; matching a discontinued pattern later is difficult.

Acclimation and layout planning

Bring the boxes into the room for about 48 hours so the planks reach room temperature and humidity. Plan the direction so the planks run along the longest wall or toward the main window.

Draw the layout and check the width of the first and last rows. Adjusting the starting row slightly avoids a narrow sliver at the far wall.

Doorways, transitions and small rooms

Doorways need the undercut or a transition strip. Small rooms have proportionally more cuts, so use 15 percent waste instead of 10. Hallways and closets often use more material than their area suggests.

Leave the expansion gap everywhere, including under the door frame, and cover it with trim rather than filling it with sealant.

Spare planks and repairs

Keep at least one box or a few spare planks. Laminate is hard to match later when the pattern is discontinued, and a single damaged plank can often be replaced by unclipping the row rather than replacing the floor.

Store the spares flat, away from damp, and write the product name on the box. That box is the difference between a small repair and a full replacement.

Questions

How many boxes of laminate do I need for 120 sq ft?

Six boxes at 24.6 sq ft per box with 10 percent waste.

How much waste should I add for laminate?

Ten percent for a straight layout, 15 percent for diagonal or rooms with many cuts.

Do I need underlayment?

Most laminate requires underlayment; some products have it attached. Check the product.

Can I install laminate over concrete?

Yes with a moisture barrier and a flat slab. Test the slab for moisture first.

How many square feet are in a box?

It varies by product, commonly 20 to 30 sq ft. Check the box before ordering.

How many boxes for a 12 by 12 room?

About 7 boxes at 24.6 sq ft per box with 10 percent waste.

What AC rating do I need?

AC3 for most homes, AC4 for busy households and light commercial.

Can laminate go in a bathroom?

Only with a water-resistant product and careful sealing; standing water will damage most laminate.

Do I need underlayment?

Most laminate needs underlayment unless it is pre-attached. Check the product.

Related calculators and guides

Box coverage varies by product; values here are arithmetic from the manufacturer box area you enter. Waste guidance follows common installation practice. · Last updated October 30, 2026 · Report a correction